15 thoughts on “Sistering broken rafter in attic for roof repair June 2013”

1. I am sure you can still buy handbook with all info you need on stodoys. Just google it.

2. For a closed in space that you say is 118 deg it sure doesn't show on your hands & arm. Don't see any sweat.

3. Should have used 3/16 steel fitch between the two or(2) outside 2 x 8s  onto this wimpy broken 2×6.   Could have used glue and less bolts. Could have placed washers between sister pieces and that compression would do a better lock of course by taping washers in place after your 1 side pilot holes are done.  Also bolts of this side should be @ 4-5 min. inches away from each other.
   Lastly there is such a thing as square plates rather than just thin fender washers.

4. I believe the proper way to fix a cracked rafter is to pull the fascia, pull the soffit and slide a new 2 by up to the ridge and nail it on. Also, one might be inclined to add a gusset with webbing to the ceiling joist, maybe?

5. Did you predrill the reinforcement wood before you drill the holes on the damaged truss?.

6. Would this same concept work on a portion of wood that has water damage? I was thinking connect a new piece on the side where the wood is still good. The roof has been replaced and the leak is no longer there. Thanks!

7. Thank you very much man!
   I appreciate it!

8. thank you, now I understand what my home inspector was warning me about! Very helpful!

9. I have this same split but in the 1st ceiling and 2nd floor, I have a split level 100+ year home… contractor quickly covered with drywall, what is the suggested repair, I'm open to removing the drywall to make it right… the large split is right above my grandson room who does jump in his room ..

10. Hi there. I have a split (about 10" long) on a hip rafter, with jacks attaching to it every 24" or so. Will this solution still work but with smaller boards for clamping? Your advise is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

11. I dont get it what exactly your doing, correct me if im wrong, what you just did exactly was to add a dead load on that crack 2×6. The reason i said that is you attach that new 2×6 with no counter loads at both ends basically floating, well the other tip is touching, so if you have a good load of snow in your roof or someone walking there, that cracked 2×6 will still continue and your bolts will be subjected to shearing, if anything i will extend that 2×6 up to the ridge, and bird mouth the other end so it would sit at the wall plate, then bolt it just saying,

12. I think I would have sandwiched it,used adhesive,deck screws & focus on stopping the split from furthering & make sure the split isn't due to overheating..if you see sap droplets everywhere, it might be an indicator of poor ventilation.

13. Man you talk all scientific but while you use the words preload, and shear force and all this other riff raff about structural integrity.. Your 1/4 inch zinc plated shoulderless non grade 8 bolts aren't protecting anything with structural integrity. The way you fix that problem is remove the soffit and facia and slide a new rafter in place next to it to "sister" it with another bird mouth cut and nail it. That is a rig and its doing nothing. If the joists are spread correctly on center that one cracked board isn't nothing. It was a bad piece of lumber. For something to crack like that a tree would have to fall on it with force. That crack will still run. If any force is applied to the roof in that spot you all threaded zinc bolts will shear.

14. Simple fix, thanks for the instruction! And thanks for going to the trouble of filming it and throwing it on YouTube, it's a big help.

15. Thank you. I need to do this in my attic ASAP and this will help me.

Comments are closed.