RV Repair – Using the right products and techniques are the key to great DIY RV repair jobs. In this video I share some of the finer points of doing a job correctly …
NJ roofers
31 thoughts on “RV Repair – DIY – Tricks of the Trade – Metal Roofs & Moulding Repair PT. 1”
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I hope you are still making money off of this video, it is still my goto video on proper techniques. Thanks Kyle, u da man! (And now, I can lay the sweetest and cleanest bead of proflex with no mess). Thanks again
I am a RV/Camper trailer first time owner of a week so please be kind to me if this sounds like a stupid question. Is it possible to have a metal/tin roof put on your camper trailer instead of sealants and rubber roofs?
alright… had leaking on aluminum roof at vent in 70s(?) DaCamp. I pulled up all the sealant, some gummy grey stuff and took out the screws and pulled the vent off. fixing the supporting wood under then putting the vent on. how do I seal this vent properly without​ coating the aluminum with loads of gunk so it doesn't leak through again?
Thanks for the video, I am finding Heng's rubber roof coat, and Heng's elastomeric roof coating, would either of those work instead?
start by fixing the air hose leak.
right now only one cabinet screw on the drivers side came completely out but the other side is part way out…being held by the middle screws… this was 2 weeks ago no difference today but I haven't driven it
I climbed on the roof and it felt softer than a few days prior… went inside to see the back cabinet screws came out and the wood was bowing. I have a metal roof and water collects on top in the place where it bowed. what should I do?
Hi …. Can I use the dicor self leveling lap sealant on my metal roof?
what is your thoughts on eternabond tape for seams on pop up campers for example ? and why do these pop-ups manufacturers put a seam right down the middle of the roof to me that is idiotic should not have a seam at all except for edges where the lap joints are but just my thoughts on the matter
Great video thanks
Clean the language would be great
hey Kyle, I got a fleetwood prowler, if you got time, check out my trailer playlist, I got a gaping tear on the side of the roof for me, battling that this summer. appreciate the videos
Hi Kyle- What would you suggest for sealing a complete separation in the aluminum? The piece above the door completely split. We were thinking proflex it to piece of sheet metal on the inside…? Maybe Bondo over the crack on the outside? Any insight is greatly appreciated! 🙂
Thanks for the great info, Â I am in Ontario, any idea where to pick up the Heng Roof coating?
this guy sounds just like Ricky from Trailer Park Boys. Â Very informative though. Â I have a 74 Security 21 footer that Im rehabbing/living in while on the road for my job
best of luck. do it during good weather and take it down to the bone
Great info. I'll be completely replacing the sealant on the roof of my Class C next summer. The previous owner was good at sealing leaks, but kept sealing over leaks that had been repaired before, then resealing all the seams and openings and never removed any old sealant since the RV was new in 1985. Luckily he did manage to stop leaks and never got any inside damage. But now there's plenty to remove
Newer RV's maintain somewhat of a roof slope. This old guy is flat roofed, and water pools. NOT GOOD
Thanks Allan. As usual, opinions vary. This is what works for me. Even with this job, I still got a small leak the following winter – when water "pools" on one of these roofs, it'll eventually "break over the edge" – somewhere – and in this case, it was a rear corner, and vertically I had not resealed it, so it leaked, not on the roof, but >just< over the edge. Sometimes this stuff can be maddening.
I've done some roof repairs myself……..this seemed like a pretty good video emphasizing important points about prepping………like a lot of other repairs prepping can be 80 or 90% of the job.
Ac into Air compressor — cool idea. I have an AC pump on that chevy that is doing nothin LOL. Is it hard to do? I, for the first time, got smart and ran my fridge on AC (inverter) , while mobile (with alternator back-charging through 10 gauge wire). Works way better than the supplied DC TEG unit.
Good info, old RV's are such a great value if you have the time to fix them up. Rehabbing a 79 25ft Pace Arrow I stole for $600, I like the work wile camping idea, turned my vehicle york AC unit into an air compressor which makes life easier on the road.
None that I know of, no… I suppose there is something out there, that would do it, but I would also look into a proper dual-puck respirator if you are going to go that route, as you will have a "large floor" of vapor below you, and also be very careful regarding fire potential. Cheers
Is there a chemical you would recommend for peeling off paint/sealant off a roof? I have an 18'er that has about 1/4" of this crap and its a beach to get off. Thx and great video.
Yeah ive run into a few where the outside skin was really the only thing holding the thing together. the wood gets dry rot after 20-25 years, even if it isnt leaking, per say. from condensation. im surprised this one isnt that bad.
Thank god it has a metal skeleton or she would have collapsed lol. I rebuilt all of the wooden structure including the nose piece, the only problem I am encountering is a little sag at the bottom corners of the sheet metal. thanks for the advice
Mallards rock. I think somewhere in this series you can see our Mallard not far from this. If you have an issue, take a video of the actual scenario / problem. You can always upload it and make it for those with "the link" only too. I do that all the time if its not really public stuff. There comes a time, often, where you have to make tougher judgement calls with rotten wood etc… sometimes you just have to button it back up, if a total rebuild is too much work and not worth it.
I'm rebuilding the bunk on an 89 mallard right now for my neighbor. the previous owner decided to try gluing it back together with a case or so of silicon probably more. I spent at least a day and a half scraping the shit of of the metal front and fiberglass sides, what a freaken nightmare. I'm loading video as i go. thanks for the tips
I've had this argument with employers. "There's a bad diode, it's obvious, I have the diode in my parts bin." ~ "No, just pull the board, we'll have it ordered – tell them 4 weeks." ~ "But I can have it fixed in 5 minutes for for 50c. The IC is doing it's job, it's fine…" ~ "don't argue, just do it." It's Silly.
The truth of the matter is, however, RV servicemen are NOT taught how to! Only the old boys and very dedicated young journeymen figure out how to. Most know nothing about electronics. DSI boards are hugely over priced ranging from $125 – $180 DEALER COST!. New fridges – $800-1800. In most cases a pin hole or corrosion, or bad cap/diode is to blame. People then fork out ridiculous amounts of money, all because the dealership servicemen are not experts, they are average.
Thanks bud. If you have any questions let me know, or even better make a video so I can see what is going on. There is no reason any work savvy individual cannot fix anything and everything on a metal roofed / metal sided RV. I have rebuilt DSI control boards, and even heat exchangers on fridges. All too often, even service outlets (at $100/hr!!) give up on both of the latter items and simply say "It is not cost effective to repair DSI boards or heat exchangers" … cont …